M72 Stuff

February 2006:

I've been told that the engine has been rebuilt, so most of the work is going to be cosmetic. Plans for the next three months are:
check & replace control cables as necessary
repair or replace clutch lever
replace wiring as necessary
Chrome plating for handlebar, risers, control levers
Repair & chrome (or replace) exhaust
build new seats for car
Replace rear fender with original
new seals for forward shocks
strip & repaint gas tank

Depending on what else I find, this should get it on the road for the season. Next winter will see a complete paint & chrome job. Note that I definitely want to keep the bike as original as possible, so the chrome will be kept to a minimum: basically just highlights. As for the paint, it's like my bud John says..."any color for a bike is fine, as long as its black".

So I'll update this page as repairs go forward.


January 2006:
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Technical Specifications:

M-72. M-72 - ZiS (Moscow), GMZ (Gorkii), IMZ (Irbit) , K-O (Harkov), KMZ (Kiev) . M-72K, M-72M - IMZ (Irbit) M-72N - KMZ (Kiev)*

Years of production:
1941-1943 preliminary M-72,
1944-1956 M-72,
1954-1960 M-72K,
1956-1960 M-72M,
1956-1959 M-72N
Total wartime production: 15,335 units.*

Payload: 300 kg, (3 people + 100 kg with sidecar)
Wheelbase: 1400mm
Road clearance: 130/135mm
Engine: 22hp/4500-4800rpm or
4800-4900rpm M-72K - 27hp/5000rpm 2-cyl.,
4-stroke SV with horizontal opposed cylinders, 746cc
Compression ratio: 5,5 : 1
Carburetor: K-37, K-37A from 1950 onward
Ignition system: battery 3MT-7 or 3MT-14, 6 Volt, 7 or 14 Amp*h
except M-72K Magneto Interrupter: points ignition*
Clutch: dry twin plates (the very early model - one plate)
Engine cooling: air
Gearbox: 4 speed with hand and foot shift
Ratios: I - 3,60, II - 2,28, III - 1,7, IV - 1,30
Final Drive ratio: 3.89, 4.62 from 1944 onward.*
Cardan: Shaft Drive*
Mechanical drum brakes on front and rear wheels Weight (fueled): 225 kg (solo), 350 kg (with sidecar)
Maximum speed (with sidecar): 85 km/h except M-72N 90 km/h and M-72K 120 km/h
Fuel tank capacity: 22 L
Fuel consumption (with sidecar): 7 L/100km under 50-60 km/h
Engine oil capacity: 2 liters
Oil consumption: 0,25 L/100 km
Transmission oil capacity: 0,8 liters
Final Drive oil capacity: 0,175 liters*

Technical specs from http://www.autogallery.org.ru/m72.htm.
* Revisions courtesy of Stephen Wiggins.

April 2006:

Hurry up and wait...that's the motto in BG. I've spent the days that are warm enough in the garage doing general tune up stuff; new plugs, oil change, cleaning off the grime, whatever possible while I search for parts and a plating shop. We had a new seat made for the sidecar and I've pulled the exhaust: I'm hoping this week to fab out a new one from stainless but getting ahold of my friend's friend's uncle Ivan who seems to be the only guy in Varna who actually knows someone with a pipe bender and flaring machine...it's an exercise in patience.
The bike, as usual, may be a M72 but it's cobbled from parts off god knows how many machines. The rear fender appears to be off an old BMW R71, nobody knows what the sidecar fender is off of, gas tank is from a K750. The tank is currently at a body shop (Thanks Tiho!) but it has so much filler that calling it a "tank" seems inappropriate. Hopefully I'll find a better one soon.
For the rear fender Kracy sorted me an original plate bracket, tail lamp and pull bar. That insane aluminum bracket is gone, but since the lower fender is shorter than the original it ain' t quite right yet.
With the tank and exhaust off, I realized that there was just so much surface rust that a complete teardown would be necessary for cleaning. Time for drastic measures. I bought two cans of gloss black spray paint and went to town. Rust, dirt, everything...it's now gloss black ;) Not good, but until the full strip and repaint next winter at least it's not going to get worse.
I've vowed not to tear it down any further until I'm SURE I can actually get the chrome work done. But maybe next week....
Pics will come as soon as it warms up again. April 8 today and still feels like winter here.


May 2006:

Well, we've experienced massive service failure. Unable to find the plating shop (there isn't really a phone book here) and frustrated by the quality of workmanship I've found, we gave up on the idea of getting the exhaust fabricated and ordered one from Leszek at the Oldtimer Garage in Poland. It isn't an exact copy of the original, and there was a bit of tweaking involved to mount it: the new set didn't have the forward mounting tabs which should fit the front foot pegs, and the alignment of the right side pipe was such that it has to mount on the outside of the rear shock rather than the inside: this caused a small problem as the outside surface is rounded and of course the mount tab is flat. The solution was a longer mounting bolt with a spacer, but it took a bit of running around to sort it. Anyhow, it's certainly made a difference.

 

As you can see I haven't been completely idle but the battle against rust continues. The touch up paint has made a big improvement but it's a temporary measure and the thin coats I've put on certainly won't last long. But it might turn some heads for a couple of months, which right now is all I'm looking for. There are a few parts like the foot shift rocker that are going to need a better solution: I picked up a bottle of bluing compound that should get them black again (after some serious muscle with the wirebrush) and last a bit longer than paint, which wouldn't stand a chance. I'll be bluing the head bolts as well to get some contrast between them and the aluminum cylinder heads.
I haven't shown any of it here because I couldn't get good photos at the garage, but I also pulled the risers and bars. I have to say this about Russian nickel plating, they lay it on thick! I took a rotary brass wirebrush to the risers and stripped off the surface rust, and the plating is still good enough to get by. The handlebars were stripped and painted for now although they'll be powder coated along with the frame later on.
A month or so ago I bought a full set of cables off of E-Bay which supposedly fit the bike...well, they don't. The speedometer cable will hopefully work although it's a bit longer, but nothing else in the package was even close to the configurations I need. This is a bit worrisome as the front brake cable isn't looking too good, but I think the other control cables are still ok. Another concern I've noticed is the return rate on the front brake actuator arm: it seems to have a tendency to stick and the travel is minimal. There's no real way to check it though until I can get her on the road again, but I'm hoping a liberal application of WD-40 will help.
So, got the risers back on the bars with some careful tweaking, ran my cables back through & remounted the switch housing and accelerator, then put on a new set of grips.


The Saga of the Gas Tank:

As I mentioned earlier, the tank is off a K750. Apparently, sometime in its sad life it was used on something smaller (probably a MZ) and the forks beat the crap out of the front of the tank to the extent that both sides are crushed in for a couple of centimeters. Added to that are a couple of other big dents so basically it's a piece of junk. Still, it holds gas and a replacement isn't directly at hand yet so ...eager to get out of the garage and on the street I took it to a local "bodyshop" to see if they could turn it over cheap and fast. No problem he tells me, three days. He'll do it free and if I like the work he'll give me a good price on the full paint job next winter. What's This? A REAL craftsman? I leave him the tank and skip merrily away thinking my problems are solved and I can get on with my other jobs.
So the next week I show up expecting to be dazzled. Sorry, the tank is in a nearby village and hasn't been delivered yet. Ok, shit happens. I give him another few days and go back. Still not delivered, but promises it will be here "tomorrow". My gut starts to cringe. The next weekend we call, and he says the tank is there. I breath a sigh of relief and head to the shop.
Yeah, it's there. With a rough blodge of filler on it and not even sanded yet.
Now we're a week and a half into the job and there's about an hour's worth of work done, but he assures me it will be painted and ready in two more days. To make a long story short, this dragged on for a full month with constant promises of "tomorrow" until I finally got fed up and just went and got the damn thing.
Sorry for the rant but it gives you an idea of the frustration I'm up against. So the next job is sanding and painting this myself. Which, of course, I should have done in the first place ;)

We did get the seat built for the sidecar at least.


 

August 2006:
Results for the Summer: (click for full sized image):


October 2007:

> >
parts is parts...
a small problem... you reckon ?
and this one looks like it was dragged behind a truck
naked engine
valves are out
grinding the valves

Yeah, a few problems here I guess. Left side was running rich, the piston has a nice little hole in it now: right side was lean, not holed but it looks like somebody took an axe to the end of the piston. No idea yet where that came from, the cylinder and head don't appear damaged ?
Anyway, Alecu had just dropped off a half ton of spares the week before I left for Romania, giving me plenty of spare parts lying about including a complete engine and some extra cylinders. Man, there isn't anything better than a garage full of junk motorcycle parts, a cold beer and some Uncle Tupelo blaring on the computer...but I digress...
Getting the cylinders off her was a bit confusing:my wrenches were too fat to get into the mounting nuts, there was some head scratching on the head bolts and again on pulling the valves. So if you get the urge to try this at home here are some tips:
a) Get a crappy box end wrench and grind the cheeks down so you can get it into the mounting nuts. Expect to turn them about a mm at a time. Don't forget to take all the nuts off before you try to pull the cylinder and wind up wondering why it's stuck.:D
b) The square head bolts use a 1/2" (13mm) drive socket extension turned backwards, then a wrench on the square end of that.
c) To get the valves out use a 22mm socket with an extension over the spring cap. Crack the hell out of it with a big hammer a few times but be careful that the retaining clips don't go flying...mine stayed comfortably inside the socket but the chance to crawl around on the garage floor definitely exists.

So the pistons are getting replaced and the valves are being ground while I wait on new rings and gaskets as well as carb kits. My nice shiny "chrome" exhaust is coated in about a quarter inch of burnt oil, so that's going to keep me busy scrubbing for awhile.
Much thanks to all the folks at Russian Iron and Soviet Steeds for the steady stream of tech help!


 

The Frankenbike:

About a year ago my buddy Gingernut (John) bought this 1961 Ural M61 650cc at a somewhat silly price. It's never run correctly, but my goal now is to get it back on the road.
We call these "Frankenbikes" because commonly things here are cobbled off any spare that can be found.

This has a M61 engine modified to 12v with an as-yet unidentified batch of parts. The crash bars have been welded on, we don't know what the front end is off of, the seat is Japanese something and the exhaust has been modified to fit the crash bars. Oil pan is leaking about a quart every few days. The side stand is homemade and almost puts the bike on its side.

Still, for a 35 year old rebuilt Ural chopper it ain' t too bad. I hope. Right now I'm trying to find the elusive spark. This bike won't be a restoration project as it's been too heavily modified.
(Update: It's now a parts bike but may get rebuilt at some point.)


May 2007:

Well, time flies and I haven't updated this site for awhile, simply because there hasn't been much going on. I've got a workshop going now (pic below) and using the other garage as a paintshop. I recently bought an airbrush and am anxious to start doing graphics on something besides a computer.



March 2008 - September 2009:

  • In March 2008 we did a complete top end rebuild with new pistons, rings and cylinders. The carburetors were also replaced with more modern K68 models.
  • In March 2009 the gearbox was replaced with a Dneprmatic reverse unit, allowing for automatic shifting and reverse gear.
    This was not an easy decision as up until this point my intention had been to keep the bike as original as possible: but practicality won out and the reverse has proved very useful, although I've never grown accustomed to the auto clutch and seldom use it.
  • In August 2009 the engine was replaced with a 1958 model while the original is being completely rebuilt.